Where to buy huge cam???

[Mika]

Hello,

I have GEN1 -94 full built s/c engine but I want more rpm... I have now 708 cam but I want powerband to reach 7500-8000rpm.

Where would you suggest to look for a more aggressive cam for my engine? Any cam spec suggestions?

Thank you!

 

[Boxer12]

Arrow Racing can fix you up.

 

[345s-bspinnin]

Spinning your engine to 7500-8000 rpm will take a whole lot more than just a huge cam. Major upgrades to the entire valve train, rotating assembly, and oiling system will be required. Contact some of our board sponsors. I am certain that most of them can guide you in the right direction.

 

[MTGTS]

You don't need to spin your engine that high. You need a Roe 710 cam or an aggressive Comp cam.

 

[Viper Specialty]

As stated above, there is WAY more needed to get into that kind of a power band than just a Camshaft... a Dry Sump and a revised rotating assembly to name a few.

 

[jdeft1]

Buy a more modern viper engine. Times have changed. That motor is old and so is the car....

(This, from a fellow '94 owner).

Cheers.

 

[plumcrazy]

if you only change the cam, you will see parts come out of the engine quickly

 

[RedEnuf93]

Terve Mika!
When you say "full built", do you mean fullt rebuilt or rebuilt with major mods?
If you dont have good heads, do the cam and heads, along with your SC will make small miracles.
What boost are you running (#8)? You know I have the same motor and car, right, even the SC;-)

 

[Mika]

Moro Lauri,
Hi all,

I just came back from holiday, so that´s the reason for delay for my reply...

In the first post I wrote that I have full built engine...what I meant was full rebuild with major modifications. So for the rotating assembly there is only a crank which is stock item. Pistons and rods are good to go for high rpm. Valvetrain is also updated to handle extra rpms. You suggested dry sump would be essential for high rpm engine, why would I need that? I have never had any oiling or breathing related problems...

The heads are prepared by local cylinder head specialist with decades of experience. Current boost is 15psi, but my old intercooler was really a major bottleneck: 25psi boost @ 3000rpm before IC, and intake temperatures went mad. Now I have updated the intercooler which should be slightly better rolleyes, see the attached picture. But during next winter I have plans for Novi2500 SC and aggressive camshaft, I just need to know which one...

As for the suggestion that I shouldn´t have a need to spin the engine so high....from the dynosheet I can see that the power will be start falling down after 6200rpm, so the engine will begin to go out of breath. Heads will flow, that is for sure. I´m aware that the Novi2000 SC is a bit too small for me and have it´s own part restricting my engine but I think the biggest problem is the cam.

Thank you all for your ideas & would like to hear more after this post with some details of my build.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Camfab]

Stock crank, and major engine rpm equals failure. Crank strength is not the issue.

 

[alwayscode390]

What fails then if its not the crank ... "but stock crank = failure with high rpm"? ---

 

[plumcrazy]

you will need a billet crank to spin it that much. get a call into greg good for more info. i know he has helped in the build of at least one high HP/RPM motor

 

[Dan Cragin]

For a Gen 1, these cars work well up to about 550hp, past the brakes and driveline does not work well without modifications. The geometry and weight of the suspension does not lend well to lots of torque, so a hp balance is good. Stock the Gen 1 puts out about 360 to the wheels, 500rwhp is the sweet spot. You can do this with a good set of headers, side exhaust, ported heads, early Gen 2 can (or other), ported throttle bodies, high flow filters, smooth tubes, Gen 2 injectors and a SBEC calibration.

Hope this helps.

 

[Allan]

For a Gen 1, these cars work well up to about 550hp, past the brakes and driveline does not work well without modifications. The geometry and weight of the suspension does not lend well to lots of torque, so a hp balance is good. Stock the Gen 1 puts out about 360 to the wheels, 500rwhp is the sweet spot. You can do this with a good set of headers, side exhaust, ported heads, early Gen 2 can (or other), ported throttle bodies, high flow filters, smooth tubes, Gen 2 injectors and a SBEC calibration.

Hope this helps.

The problem is that some people don't care about what will work, what is recommended (by people in the know), and what will be reliable. They just want to make a million horsepower and try to affect the Earth's rotation with their modded car. -This mindset is from the ricer tuner culture that gets 1200 horsepower out of little Civic four cylinders, but they only get it for one dyno pull, then there is oil spewing from the side of the block. But who cares....look at all the power it made....once. I just don't get it.

 

[drlee50]

You don't need to spin your engine that high. You need a Roe 710 cam or an aggressive Comp cam.

I have a roe cam for sale if needed. pm me if u do. ?.
Thanks
Lee

 

[vipzilla]

well i thought i might chime in ...as most of you know i have a gen 1 making 805rwhp paxton s/c 708 cam still the same throttle bodies gen 2 intake and a real fuel system 80lb injectors etc also ported heads (gregg good) 1.7's headers exuast vec 2 ati damper larger intercooler .. car is verry reliable did have to modify drivers side motor mount due to torque and rear axles unitrax curently working on big brake kit i dont need to rev into 7000 mark i beleive that would be insane ..just my opinion

 

[DrumrBoy]

Can you say "boom"?

 

[Viper Grenade]

You will need a dry sump and solid roller cam with matching valve spring to spin the high. Dry sump is about $6k.

 

[Kill-Zone]

I would just call Greg Good, he will tell you what to do

 

[Mika]

Hello all & thanks for your replies again!

Few questions... Because many of you have suggested I would need a dry sump, so I would like to know why would I need that? My knowledge about dry sump is based on the fact about g-forces during extreme cornering/acceleration where the oil level varies dramatically in a (badly designed) oil pan and therefore causes oil pump to **** air rather than oil. But I´m struggling to find any good reason for my engine to need one if I only want 2000 more rpms?

-> Camfab: So what will explode if the stock crank strength is not an issue? My 0.1g balanced Eagle H-beam rods? My 0.1g balanced CP pistons?

-> Allan: 1200hp from Civic engine is insane amounts of power and who can make it last is a good engine builder. But if you think about this subject from a bit different point of view....hp/liter or hp/cyl. That 1200hp Civic engine has a 300hp/cylinder and if it´s 2liter it is 600hp/liter. Serious numbers! But if you think a supercharged Viper engine with 10 cylinders, 8 liters and let´s say same 1200hp. It would be 120hp/cylinder and 150hp/liter which would be still very very reliable if good quality parts are used and the engine is carefully blueprinted! There are many naturally aspirated engines (BMW V8, Honda I4, etc) which are pushing over 100hp/liter stock and anyone can buy them and drive a lots of thousands reliable miles with them... Can you see my point? So my point is that I think 1200hp Viper engine is still very mildly tuned engine but with many cylinders and lots of displacement it will produce silly amounts of power more reliably than smaller ones.

Maybe we are drifted a bit away from the original question... Were to buy huge cam? But thanks for your thoughts.

 

[ViperTony]

Maybe we are drifted a bit away from the original question... Were to buy huge cam? But thanks for your thoughts.

Greg Good. PM him.