Let's discuss making my Paxton car faster...

iownedu

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Right now its just a stock paxton kit on a stock car. Corsa track exhaust. It did put down 674 and 692whp on a dynojet, 2 dyno pulls.

I run 18" drag radials on the car at all times.

I have 3" Random Tech High Flow cats new in the box I plan to put on soon.

Here is what I have planned:

1. DLM Tensioner for Paxton

2. DLM Larger Heat Exchanger for Paxton

3. Roe Fuel and Engine Management package (91 octane tune): http://www.roeracing.com/productcar...mbo-03-06-Vipers-and-Ram-SRT-10-s-210p994.htm

4. Roe Methanol Injection Kit (I assume ROE can setup my tune accordingly for this)

5. Boost and Wideband Gauge's. (Should I put the wideband on the passenger or driver side exhaust? Which goes lean first?)


I want to run 7 or 8 lbs of boost, I would love to run the 10lb pulley along with a restrictor plate to acheive this. Does anyone make a plate? I cant stand how the paxton doesnt make any boost until 4k rpm's (I miss my P1 powered C5 with instant boost).

Can you guys think of anything else I need? After I get it all installed I would plan to take the car to Dynotune USA in Watertown, SD and have Andy tune it.

Might be willing to throw a cam in the car also.

Thanks for any input.
 

Paul Hawker

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If you start building more power than the stock Paxton provides, you will need to beef up the internals on the engine to support the additional boost.

Reliability with stock Paxton is excellent.
 

AbsolutHank

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If you start building more power than the stock Paxton provides, you will need to beef up the internals on the engine to support the additional boost.

Reliability with stock Paxton is excellent.

Couldn't have said it better...other than upping the boost, most of the mods listed aren't adding a ton of power, just great additions to the weak points of the Paxton kit
 

Bobpantax

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Depending on how much more power you are thinking of and assuming that you are running stock flywheel, clutch, tranny, differential and half shafts, you may need to upgrade all of the foregoing. Just upping the power without considering what effect that may have on other components can lead to serious problems and potentially unsafe operation depending on what the car is to be used for. This tends not to be emphacized enough on our sub Forums.

Right now its just a stock paxton kit on a stock car. Corsa track exhaust. It did put down 674 and 692whp on a dynojet, 2 dyno pulls.

I run 18" drag radials on the car at all times.

I have 3" Random Tech High Flow cats new in the box I plan to put on soon.

Here is what I have planned:

1. DLM Tensioner for Paxton

2. DLM Larger Heat Exchanger for Paxton

3. Roe Fuel and Engine Management package (91 octane tune): http://www.roeracing.com/productcar...mbo-03-06-Vipers-and-Ram-SRT-10-s-210p994.htm

4. Roe Methanol Injection Kit (I assume ROE can setup my tune accordingly for this)

5. Boost and Wideband Gauge's. (Should I put the wideband on the passenger or driver side exhaust? Which goes lean first?)


I want to run 7 or 8 lbs of boost, I would love to run the 10lb pulley along with a restrictor plate to acheive this. Does anyone make a plate? I cant stand how the paxton doesnt make any boost until 4k rpm's (I miss my P1 powered C5 with instant boost).

Can you guys think of anything else I need? After I get it all installed I would plan to take the car to Dynotune USA in Watertown, SD and have Andy tune it.

Might be willing to throw a cam in the car also.

Thanks for any input.
 
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iownedu

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Strictly a street car, wont be doing any hard launches on a track or anything like that.

Might be interested in 3.55 gears as well.
 
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iownedu

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I ended up doing the following.

Roe **** injection kit

Roe SCT Tune with 69lb injectors and 2 bar map sensor.

Aeromotive Stealth 340lph Fuel Pump

Mopar 3" Race Exhaust

AEM Wideband/Boost Failsafe Guage in single pod

I have a set of 3.55 gears from Roe sitting here also, I plan to install those in a month or so. I want to get the car all dialed in from these other mods first.

Well here are some pics of my progress.

Here is where I have the wideband wires running through an existing hole on the passenger side in front of the door hinge. The factory just had a piece of double side tape over it to seal it. Push your finger through it and your in the cab by the passenger footwell. I resealed it as you see with black RTV.

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Here is where the wideband wires run behind the wheel well splash shield.

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And then down by the exhaust, drilled to holes to mount the end of the actual o2 sensor harness, then plugged it in. This will make it really easy to replace the wideband o2 sensor without tearing anything apart.
This is the passenger side, **** installed in the midpipe after the flex section. It would have been easier to install the wideband o2 on the driver side more than likely, but I wanted it on the passenger side because our fuel rails are setup where the fuel goes to the passenger side after the driver side. Typically this means the passenger side bank would be the first to go lean.

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Driver side exhaust off.

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Mopar Race catless mid-pipe versus stock.

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Passenger exhaust mock-up

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Driver side exhaust done. I wetsanded the tips prior to install, they looked like hell out of the box. Started with 500 grit, then 800, then 1500, then 2000, then 2500, followed by neverdull polish. Not perfect, but ALOT better. Only put about 15 minutes into each tip.

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New 69 lb injectors and 2 bar map sensor.

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Installing injectors, EASY.

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iownedu

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Wiring up Roe **** injection kit.

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I mounted the pump control button so that it can be pressed from the battery area.

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Pump mounted on driver side right under the resevoir in the trunk, just enough room for it.

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AEM Wideband/Boost Failsafe Gauge. (The vaccuum is reading so low because I had a boost source line for my **** control unhooked)

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Nine Ball

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You are off to a good start with the methanol kit added. Nothing you've added will increase power, however. If you do decide to up the boost, I'd recommend going with the ATI crank damper with the 7% overdrive crank pulley. The benefit is improved engine harmonics from the damper itself, and that it also gets away from the 2-piece pulley setup that comes with the Paxton kit. The new crank pulley is 1-piece, bolts directly to the damper. This pulley is good for another 2psi boost, and will not hurt belt slippage like going with a smaller blower pulley will. Also, find the green Gates HD equivalent of your belt. They are more resistant to heat and won't stretch as bad. Good for preventing belt slip.

I just installed it on my car, hoping to get it dyno tuned this weekend.

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Steve M

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I like the blue. Is that a custom mod or is there a kit to do this?

Just change to bulbs to blue LEDs...pretty straightforward to do, just time consuming to get to the gauge cluster. All the information you need is on this site.
 
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iownedu

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Yep I think I posted a how-to thread with part numbers for the LED's. You can do whatever color you want.
 
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iownedu

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You are off to a good start with the methanol kit added. Nothing you've added will increase power, however. If you do decide to up the boost, I'd recommend going with the ATI crank damper with the 7% overdrive crank pulley. The benefit is improved engine harmonics from the damper itself, and that it also gets away from the 2-piece pulley setup that comes with the Paxton kit. The new crank pulley is 1-piece, bolts directly to the damper. This pulley is good for another 2psi boost, and will not hurt belt slippage like going with a smaller blower pulley will. Also, find the green Gates HD equivalent of your belt. They are more resistant to heat and won't stretch as bad. Good for preventing belt slip.

I just installed it on my car, hoping to get it dyno tuned this weekend.

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Yeah I'm mostly preparing the car with tthe correct fuel setup so I can run 10lbs later on, along with adding a head/Cam package.
Ill definately go with that crank pulley over the smaller blower pulley, I still need to order a DLM tensioner assist as well.

It does feel like its making quite a bit more power though, probably for a couple reasons. Its actually running at a good A/F ratio now instead of the very rich paxton setup, and the timing is a little more advanced than the split second box since I added the **** kit.
 

Nine Ball

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Yeah I'm mostly preparing the car with tthe correct fuel setup so I can run 10lbs later on, along with adding a head/Cam package.
Ill definately go with that crank pulley over the smaller blower pulley, I still need to order a DLM tensioner assist as well.

It does feel like its making quite a bit more power though, probably for a couple reasons. Its actually running at a good A/F ratio now instead of the very rich paxton setup, and the timing is a little more advanced than the split second box since I added the **** kit.

Did you get the full new fuel system installed already? If so, you've probably also noticed the great improvement in throttle response. I used to hate when I ran the stock Paxton externals and FMU, they would always cause the engine to bog initially due to flooding the injectors, then the car would take off after. Felt like horrible turbo lag. It was also very hard to tune the car when using those piggyback fuel pumps. I'd recommend that all Paxton owners spend the $1500-2000 and get a proper fuel system installed, get rid of the Split Second and FMU, and use the SCT tuning.

Levin tensioner bolt works well if you are getting belt slip. If your belt isn't slipping yet, you probably don't need it. Mine never slipped under 10 psi. Here is what it would do at 12 psi, even with the DLM tensioner. The belt would just stretch as it got hotter, and I'd have to keep tightening the tensioner. Hopefully the green HD Gates belt reduces that stretch tendency. On the dyno, this amount of belt slip would cost me 100-150 rwhp!

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iownedu

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Did you get the full new fuel system installed already? If so, you've probably also noticed the great improvement in throttle response. I used to hate when I ran the stock Paxton externals and FMU, they would always cause the engine to bog initially due to flooding the injectors, then the car would take off after. Felt like horrible turbo lag. It was also very hard to tune the car when using those piggyback fuel pumps. I'd recommend that all Paxton owners spend the $1500-2000 and get a proper fuel system installed, get rid of the Split Second and FMU, and use the SCT tuning.

Levin tensioner bolt works well if you are getting belt slip. If your belt isn't slipping yet, you probably don't need it. Mine never slipped under 10 psi. Here is what it would do at 12 psi, even with the DLM tensioner. The belt would just stretch as it got hotter, and I'd have to keep tightening the tensioner. Hopefully the green HD Gates belt reduces that stretch tendency. On the dyno, this amount of belt slip would cost me 100-150 rwhp!

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I concur, the throttle response and off boost power is night and day difference!

Have you tried a Goodyear gatorback belt? I had slipping issues on my c5 a couple years ago from stretching and the gatorback cured the problem.
I'm thinking about throwing a grooved cut pulley on the blower too just for good measure.
 

Nine Ball

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I concur, the throttle response and off boost power is night and day difference!

Have you tried a Goodyear gatorback belt? I had slipping issues on my c5 a couple years ago from stretching and the gatorback cured the problem.
I'm thinking about throwing a grooved cut pulley on the blower too just for good measure.

That is the Gatorback you see in my hand, in dust form.
 

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