LED Replacement Lighting Thread

ohlarikd

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Since I do not have the fundage for a TT kit or Greg Good heads, I can't start an awesome thread like that. But I can afford some bulbs! I haven't seen a thread that focuses on what works and doesn't work with external and internal replacements for bulbs. I know many have done this, so let's put the info in one place. I started a thread like this years ago on another board/car, and that thread is still going without me.

I decided to focus on the external lighting first. I never know what vendors I can or cannot talk about here... so I will show pictures and descriptions. If we are allowed to post the websites, then I will later.

My initial focus is on the tail lights and front blinkers. Basically, I want to replace any slow flashing incandescents, as they bother the crap out of me. I experimented a bit as well.

Next, the bulbs I tried. Remember they are polarized, so you may need to change the orientation to make it light. Double check them first before remounting everything.
 
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ohlarikd

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This is a 45 LED 3157 replacement, dual intensity with RED LEDs. You do need to use red in a red lens. White turns it to orange.

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Here is the 18 LED 3157 Amber to replace the rear turn signal. I thought 45 would be too bright.
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Side by side- they are about the same size, so either one will fit the same space, if that was a problem.
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The amber one, if you look closely, has 3 LEDs in each chip. You would think it would be brighter, but its not.

I also bought some Natural White 194 size bulbs, which fit in many places. I used these to replace the license plate bulbs, and also to try out in other places for testing.
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ohlarikd

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Ok, so this is round one of testing.

Brake light bulb

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ohlarikd

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Here are brake lights in action:

https://vimeo.com/50883782

The brake lights work well and the brightness seems about right. I like how they come one the same as the center stop light now. No delay. I am happy with them. Now on to the turn signals...
 
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CEJ

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Pretty cool. How do you know what brightness to use? Is there some table that compares regular bulbs with the LED replacement?
 
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ohlarikd

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Right away, fail:

https://vimeo.com/50883781

The dreaded fast blink. These bulbs say they have built in loads so that they do not appear to be burned out bulbs, but not the case. HOWEVER, there is a solution. I just ordered a new flasher relay that blinks the same no matter what mix of bulbs you are using, including LEDs. I searched around and found the flasher module to be in the upper steering column:

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The replacement for this is the EP27L LED Bulb Electronic Flasher. Fine, I will post a link.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...bs/ep27l-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/784/838/

Now, I am pretty sure this will work, but its in the mail. When I get it, I will post results.
 
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ohlarikd

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The second problem, which eludes to CEJ's question on 'how do I know what brightness to choose'... I don't know! That is why I ordered two types to figure. Turns out, the 18 LED amber is not bright enough. Here is a video of the hazards on, which doesn't suffer from the fast blink phenomenon. You can see the normal right-side bulb is brighter.

https://vimeo.com/50883783

It's not bad if you never saw the other one. But, I am returning the 18 LED Ambers and ordered four 45 LED Ambers. That should be about as bright as it can get. Two ambers for the back, and two ambers for the front. The front actually uses TWO different bulbs to blink - the main 3157 one in the projector type housing, and a side marker light (168/194 size). So I ordered the side marker LED bulb in Amber as well. I will post those results along with the new flasher.
 
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ohlarikd

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The rest of the tail light bulbs are 194 size, the small ones. They don't blink at all, so there really is no reason to replace them. However, I did notice that they all flash when you use the remote control to open the trunk, and they get all out of sync. I am not yet maniacal enough to let this bother me. Yet. It would be four 194 LED bulbs.

https://vimeo.com/50883780
 
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ohlarikd

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Finally for now, the license place lights. These came out a bit bright, but I think I will keep it. It looks brighter in this picture than in reality. The plate isn't that washed out.

Here is the difference in stock light on right to LED on left:

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ohlarikd

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I tried to put the license plate LEDs into the rear view mirror locations, but I can't get those bulbs out! They are deeply embedded. I will leave the interior alone for now until I get all the exterior ones right.

I also tried replacing the stock fog lights with Sylvania Silverstars. In the past, these have worked pretty well as headlights. As a fog light, at the lower wattage... they just don't make much difference for $22. I was trying to match the HIDs in color, but the HIDs are still a little higher on the Kelvin scale in color than these Silverstars. I might try to return them if they will take them back, not sure since they are bulbs.

Here is a pic, but ther was not way to take a pic that shows the color difference. Silverstars still a bit yellow. If anyone has any alternatives....

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ohlarikd

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Hmm... I see there are several simple HID kits for H10 (9145) foglights, around $50. That only a few bucks more than these Silverstars. I can't decide if the right color is 4300K or 6000K.
 

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Hmm... I see there are several simple HID kits for H10 (9145) foglights, around $50. That only a few bucks more than these Silverstars. I can't decide if the right color is 4300K or 6000K.

Great thread! Great idea, and nice looking vert! I would recommend 4300K to keep the OEM yet elegant look going. 6000K has a blue hue to it. While it isn't completely obvious you can still tell instantly that they are not OEM. 4300K will give that crisp clean without the ricer look IMO
 
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ohlarikd

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Great thread! Great idea, and nice looking vert! I would recommend 4300K to keep the OEM yet elegant look going. 6000K has a blue hue to it. While it isn't completely obvious you can still tell instantly that they are not OEM. 4300K will give that crisp clean without the ricer look IMO

Yeah, I think 4300 is the right color. I am now wondering if the fogs will blind everyone. I need to look more closely at the beam pattern. I returned the Silverstars, so I will concentrate on the LEDs first.
 

Steve M

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An HID bulb will likely not produce a good pattern in these fog light housings...they are just so much longer than a standard halogen bulb.
 
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ohlarikd

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An HID bulb will likely not produce a good pattern in these fog light housings...they are just so much longer than a standard halogen bulb.

Yeah, I tend to agree - I am a little hesitant to try since I think the fogs will produce a bad pattern and blind everyone. The fogs are basically useless on this car, not sure what to do with them or the location.
 
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ohlarikd

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I found an awesome LED 3157 that I was thinking would be perfect for the front turns signals. The stock lens is clear, so when the parking lights are on, the stock yellow bulb makes it look yellow. Then it also functions as the yellow flash.

I would prefer if that parking light was WHITE, and then turned YELLOW when blinking. Apparently someone already thought of that. Twice as expensive though...

http://www.v-leds.com/5K-WHITE-AMBER-DUAL-COLOR-p7472045-1-2.html

I may give these a try... arg...


Derek
 

chorps

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+1 for great info and subscribing to this thread. I think I'll wind up cloning what you've done over the winter. :rolaugh:
 

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Thanks for LED testing and sharing. I think some of the brighter rear light LEDs are good for folks who want to "black out" their rear tail lamps, but still have a bright red brake light to ensure you don't get rear ended.
 
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ohlarikd

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Thanks for LED testing and sharing. I think some of the brighter rear light LEDs are good for folks who want to "black out" their rear tail lamps, but still have a bright red brake light to ensure you don't get rear ended.

I did find two brighter RED LEDs today, so I may return everything and try again!

EDIT: I read a lot of comments on the V-LED site that people have used these successfully on blacked out tail lights.
 
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ohlarikd

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Ok, I ordered brighter (in theory) 3157 RED (brakes) and AMBER (rear signals) dual intensity bulbs from V-LEDs.
http://www.v-leds.com/PLATINUM-RED-7-WATT-HIGH-p9448913.html

These are new bulbs with 1/2 watt LEDs. I don't think there is anything brighter (I said that before...). I will post comparison pics to the original LEDs I bought, and keep the best.

As for the front signals, I purchased the 'switchback' 3157 LEDs that I posted before. Normal operation is 5K white, which is a close enough match to the HIDs that are next to it. When the turn signal goes on, it changes to amber flashing. Should be neat.

EDIT: I also ordered H10 5K LED bulbs for the fogs. I really want them to match better in color. They don't really serve any purpose right now anyway with the stock bulbs.

I will update later in the week when I get them. The new flasher relay is coming as well to test.
 
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ohlarikd

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Tried the new Flasher Relay today. While I think it would have worked with the LED turn signals, as soon as I tried the Hazard lights, the fuse in the engine bay blew. Back to the drawing board, and a closer look at the schematics.

Delays... delays...

EDIT: Apparently this is a common problem in 2001+ Dodge vehicles...
 
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KNG SNKE

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I own a 2001 and I picked up an electronic flasher from Autozone. It was 7 bucks or so but that solved the fast flash issue and no issues with hazards.
 
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ohlarikd

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I own a 2001 and I picked up an electronic flasher from Autozone. It was 7 bucks or so but that solved the fast flash issue and no issues with hazards.

Thanks for some feedback. I think it is slightly dependent on the car. Its 'around' 2001 when this started happening. I see this issue on many SRTs, Durangos, Intrepids... etc. Yes, the EP27 can be bought at Autozone, and sometimes it works in some cars, sometimes not apparently. The symptom always seems to be the same - flashers work, but hazard blows the fuse.

Researching... A wiring diagram of a Gen III would be good, at least a scan of that page.
 

KNG SNKE

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I'm not sure. It was a generic flasher assembly. I basically brought my oem flasher in and they sold me a generic one. No listing of chrysler or dodge on it.
 
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ohlarikd

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Emailed the manufacturer of the LM470 'lighting control module' (its not a flasher anymore...), and they tell me that it will solve the hazard fuse issue and handle the LEDs. We shall see...
 
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ohlarikd

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I am going to pick up the LM470 in the morning. But I have a backup plan that would be free.

http://v-ledsblog.com/2010/12/02/how-to-modify-your-flasher-to-work-with-v-leds/

Very simple to do - just get a dremel and start grinding away at the resistor loop until the flasher blinks properly. In theory, once the right resistance is found, it could be replaced by a real one I would imagine - someone could just replace it straight away and skip the grinding. But not necessary.

I opened the stock relay, and it has the loop. Worth a shot if last relay option fails. The relay is $30 though, and this is $0.

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