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| Viper Detailing Tips & Tricks For the cosmetic care of your car both inside and out |
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#1 |
![]() Over 20 pictures documenting the various stages of treatment: http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z...T-10%20Detail/ Surface Assessment This black '94 with about 60k miles was brought to me last weekend for an exterior detail by the owner after getting caught in the rain earlier this month. After looking over the car's condition, some clear coat failure is beginning take place on the left rear quarter panel and deck lid area. Some other blemishes (shoes scuffs, surface cracks) are also evident in addition to normal wear and tear. The owner has decided to repaint later this year. Preparing the Surface After rinsing off the heavy dirt, I started with the "Ulti-Mit" from Lake Country Mfg. and heavy solution of car wash concentrate in a 2.5 gallon wash bucket. Once completed with the wash and rinse, it was time to start with the clay bar for surface contaminant removal. The horizontal surfaces were not really that bad except for some tar near the wheel well areas of the vehicle. After a simple rinse, drying of the car was completed with microfiber waffle weave drying towels. Notice how the water stands on the flat surfaces in a solid sheet after clay bar use. Surface Correction As a general guideline, I was looking to use the least aggressive method of paint surface correction. However, after seeing the stubborn blemishes and spider scratches, certain areas would need stronger measures. I tested a marked off section of the drivers rear quarter panel by spot buffing with a 6.50" yellow "medium cutting" pad on the Porter Cable 7424 and 3M Perfect-II Rubbing Compound. This action leveled the surfaces smooth of the spider scratches. For the larger areas, I used a Makita 9227 rotary polisher to remove micro-marring/swirls/holograms from the compounded areas using a black foam pad and Tropi-Care TC-8 Swirl Cutter. Its aggressiveness rating would be about 40/100. A follow up using the PC 7424 equipped with an orange "cutting/polishing" foam pad and Swirl Cutter restored an even greater clarity to the surface. Swirl Removal/Finish Surface Prep After swirl removal was completed, an application of TC-3 Polish/Sealant xP was next. Using the Porter Cable once again, the blue "final finishing" foam pad put down a thin consistent product layer on the surface. After allowing roughly 30 minutes drying time, removal was accomplished using microfiber polishing cloth. The Extra Step For additional depth on darker colors, this was an excellent opportunity to apply a carnauba paste wax topping. Hand applied with a 4" round blue foam pad, the key was to apply to small sections and wipe off the residue with the polishing towel before it dried. It also helps to apply on a cool surface in the shaded setting. Final Detail Touches For easier cleaning on other surface areas, I used a 20" wheel/fender brush for hard to reach areas as well as 16" wheel spoke brush to clean between the mesh openings. Time constraints allow access to this car for the day only. A water based tire dressing completed the exterior treatment. Comments and questions welcomed.
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'95 RT/10 '00 GTS '03 SRT-4 (DD) |
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#2 |
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Comment - Wow
Questions - Wow |
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#3 |
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Great write-up!
Thanks! |
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#4 |
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VCA Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: danville, pa
Posts: 409
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so does the owner still want to repaint after an awsome detailing you did?
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#5 |
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damn.........
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510 Stroker, Greg Good heads, DLM Paxton, Rebuilt and Tuned by DLM. Still need more boost and a small shot of nitrous... ![]() |
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#6 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 286
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That's the best looking car I've ever seen... But I'm partial
![]() Thanks for the great job Steve! Keep in mind, everyone, that the paint on the car is the original paint from the factory in 94. After I got the car home I california dusted it then started layering more waxes on top. I started with Tropi-care quick detailer to finish clearing off an micro dust not removed by the california duster as well as to add a slight layer of oils to enhance the shine. I then put on a quick coat of carnuba spray wax. After that I put on a complete coat of Tropi-care carnuba paste wax. After letting the applications cure for a little while I then put on a dry plush microfiber PC bonnet over a medium dense pad on my PC and went over the paint to even out any uneven parts or smudges I may have missed. I consider all this I just listed "one coat". I'm on my third coat now and I feel as if I can reach into the paint with my hand because the look is so deep. Better yet, if the car gets dirtys or any bugs get smashed it'll be easy to clean since I will have so many layers of wax on (also preventing swirls from happening when I clean it off). I will be getting a repaint this winter but it's for a few reasons. The first is to add stripes. The second is to renew the paint since it is in fact the original paint that came with the car. The third is to repair the clearcoat failure. The car has been wetsanded to smooth out the paint and any orange peel it had from the factory (done by previous owner). The clearcoat was thin on the back rear quarterpanel, hence the clearcoat failure. Last edited by Kiaser; 08-29-2007 at 09:18 PM. |
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#7 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Thornhill, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 303
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Which colour stripes are you getting? Beautiful '94 by the way.
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#8 |
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Viper Owner
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Rockville, Maryland
Posts: 65
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what are your rates and where are you located?
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#9 |
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ALmost as shiny as our BLACK SRT--LOL--just kidding...! THAT is BEAUTIFUL, man!!! Absolutely stunning~~juli
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GTS Blue 08 w/ Silver Stripes Vert RED '08 436hp Corvette Orange 08 Busa |
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